Lisbon for Less: Europe's Best Value Capital

Sat, 10 Feb 2024 00:00:00 +0000

Lisbon is one of those cities that surprises you. You arrive expecting a nice European city, and you leave having accidentally planned your return trip.

It’s hilly, colourful, slightly crumbling in the best possible way, and compared to Paris, Barcelona or Amsterdam — genuinely affordable.

Getting there

From the airport: The Metro (green line) runs direct to Baixa-Chiado in 35 minutes for €1.85. Aero Bus costs €4. A taxi to the centre is around €15–20.

By train: Lisbon is well-connected by Renfe/CP from Spain. Night trains from Madrid are affordable and save a night’s accommodation.

Where to stay

Aim for €20–30/night in a hostel dorm, €50–80 for a budget private room.

Best areas:

Alfama — the historic heart, beautiful but hilly. Perfect if you don’t mind stairs.
Mouraria — multicultural, local feel, great food, slightly cheaper than Alfama
Intendente — up-and-coming, best value, 10 mins walk to everywhere

Lost Inn Lisbon and Home Lisbon Hostel consistently get strong reviews and sit in the €22–28 dorm range.

What to do

Free viewpoints (Miradouros)

The best thing about Lisbon is free — the views. Every neighbourhood has a miradouro and they’re all stunning.

Miradouro da Graça — best panoramic view, fewer tourists than most
Miradouro de Santa Catarina — bohemian crowd, buskers, iconic statue
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte — highest point, views over the castle

Go at golden hour. Bring a beer from a nearby minimarket (€1–1.50) and you’ve got the best evening in Europe for the price of a coffee elsewhere.

Belém

A 20-minute tram (or €0.80 ferry from Cais do Sodré) takes you to Belém. Home to:

Pastéis de Belém — the original custard tart bakery since 1837. A pastel costs €1.40. Eat four.
Jerónimos Monastery — stunning Manueline architecture, free on Sunday mornings
Torre de Belém — €6 entry, iconic but you can photograph it perfectly for free from the riverfront

Sintra day trip

Take the Sintra train from Rossio station — €2.30 each way, runs every 40 minutes. Sintra is a fairy-tale hilltop town packed with palaces. Budget €15–25 for entrance fees if you want to go inside several palaces.

Where to eat

Pastel de nata — 90 cents to €1.40 from any pastelaria. Eat them warm.

Prego — a steak sandwich. About €5–8. Essential.

Bacalhau (salt cod) — Portugal’s national obsession, 365 ways to cook it. A full restaurant meal with bacalhau runs €9–14.

Tascas — small neighbourhood taverns, usually a chalked board menu. Prato do dia (dish of the day) is typically €7–9 with bread, salad and a drink included.

Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré brings together the city’s best food stalls. Dishes run €8–14 — not the cheapest option, but exceptional quality and a brilliant atmosphere.

Getting around

Metro — Clean, fast, €1.85 per journey or €6.70 for a day pass. Covers most of the city.

Tram 28 — The famous yellow tram that climbs through Alfama. Beautiful but packed with tourists and pickpockets. Take it once for the experience, then use the metro.

Walking — Lisbon is surprisingly walkable once you accept that it’s very hilly. Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable.

Ferry — €1.30 across the Tagus to Almada or Cacilhas. Worth it for the views alone.

Money-saving tips

Lunch is the main meal in Portugal. Restaurant almoço menus are €9–12 for two courses, bread and a drink. Dinner at the same restaurant might cost double.
Minimarket wine is excellent. A perfectly decent bottle of Portuguese red costs €3–5 at a minimarket. Drink it on a miradouro.
Viva Viagem card — buy a reusable card (€0.50) and load it with credit rather than buying single tickets.
Avoid the Baixa tourist restaurants. Walk 10 minutes uphill into Alfama or Mouraria and prices drop immediately.
The LX Factory Sunday market is free to browse and great for a morning wander.

Practical info

Visa: Schengen zone. 90-day visa-free for most nationalities.

Safety: Very safe city. Watch for pickpockets on Tram 28 and in Alfama.

Power: Type F (European two-pin), 230V.

Tipping: Not expected, but rounding up or leaving €1–2 is appreciated in sit-down restaurants.

Lisbon keeps pulling me back. Three visits and I still have a list. Send me your Lisbon tips — I’m always looking for what I missed.

Portugal on TravelTown