Lisbon is one of those cities that surprises you. You arrive expecting a nice European city, and you leave having accidentally planned your return trip.
It’s hilly, colourful, slightly crumbling in the best possible way, and compared to Paris, Barcelona or Amsterdam — genuinely affordable.
Getting there
From the airport: The Metro (green line) runs direct to Baixa-Chiado in 35 minutes for €1.85. Aero Bus costs €4. A taxi to the centre is around €15–20.
By train: Lisbon is well-connected by Renfe/CP from Spain. Night trains from Madrid are affordable and save a night’s accommodation.
Where to stay
Aim for €20–30/night in a hostel dorm, €50–80 for a budget private room.
Best areas:
- Alfama — the historic heart, beautiful but hilly. Perfect if you don’t mind stairs.
- Mouraria — multicultural, local feel, great food, slightly cheaper than Alfama
- Intendente — up-and-coming, best value, 10 mins walk to everywhere
Lost Inn Lisbon and Home Lisbon Hostel consistently get strong reviews and sit in the €22–28 dorm range.
What to do
Free viewpoints (Miradouros)
The best thing about Lisbon is free — the views. Every neighbourhood has a miradouro and they’re all stunning.
- Miradouro da Graça — best panoramic view, fewer tourists than most
- Miradouro de Santa Catarina — bohemian crowd, buskers, iconic statue
- Miradouro da Senhora do Monte — highest point, views over the castle
Go at golden hour. Bring a beer from a nearby minimarket (€1–1.50) and you’ve got the best evening in Europe for the price of a coffee elsewhere.
Belém
A 20-minute tram (or €0.80 ferry from Cais do Sodré) takes you to Belém. Home to:
- Pastéis de Belém — the original custard tart bakery since 1837. A pastel costs €1.40. Eat four.
- Jerónimos Monastery — stunning Manueline architecture, free on Sunday mornings
- Torre de Belém — €6 entry, iconic but you can photograph it perfectly for free from the riverfront
Sintra day trip
Take the Sintra train from Rossio station — €2.30 each way, runs every 40 minutes. Sintra is a fairy-tale hilltop town packed with palaces. Budget €15–25 for entrance fees if you want to go inside several palaces.
Where to eat
Pastel de nata — 90 cents to €1.40 from any pastelaria. Eat them warm.
Prego — a steak sandwich. About €5–8. Essential.
Bacalhau (salt cod) — Portugal’s national obsession, 365 ways to cook it. A full restaurant meal with bacalhau runs €9–14.
Tascas — small neighbourhood taverns, usually a chalked board menu. Prato do dia (dish of the day) is typically €7–9 with bread, salad and a drink included.
Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré brings together the city’s best food stalls. Dishes run €8–14 — not the cheapest option, but exceptional quality and a brilliant atmosphere.
Getting around
Metro — Clean, fast, €1.85 per journey or €6.70 for a day pass. Covers most of the city.
Tram 28 — The famous yellow tram that climbs through Alfama. Beautiful but packed with tourists and pickpockets. Take it once for the experience, then use the metro.
Walking — Lisbon is surprisingly walkable once you accept that it’s very hilly. Comfortable shoes are non-negotiable.
Ferry — €1.30 across the Tagus to Almada or Cacilhas. Worth it for the views alone.
Money-saving tips
- Lunch is the main meal in Portugal. Restaurant almoço menus are €9–12 for two courses, bread and a drink. Dinner at the same restaurant might cost double.
- Minimarket wine is excellent. A perfectly decent bottle of Portuguese red costs €3–5 at a minimarket. Drink it on a miradouro.
- Viva Viagem card — buy a reusable card (€0.50) and load it with credit rather than buying single tickets.
- Avoid the Baixa tourist restaurants. Walk 10 minutes uphill into Alfama or Mouraria and prices drop immediately.
- The LX Factory Sunday market is free to browse and great for a morning wander.
Practical info
Visa: Schengen zone. 90-day visa-free for most nationalities.
Safety: Very safe city. Watch for pickpockets on Tram 28 and in Alfama.
Power: Type F (European two-pin), 230V.
Tipping: Not expected, but rounding up or leaving €1–2 is appreciated in sit-down restaurants.
Lisbon keeps pulling me back. Three visits and I still have a list. Send me your Lisbon tips — I’m always looking for what I missed.